Beadwork is one of the crafts that is really popular at the moment, as new very regular sized embroidery beads are more available than ever, offering possibilities for every aptitude level ranging from basic needlecraft ability to copying intricate patterns or creating the mostsophisticated and original designs in 2 or 3 dimensions. Much beadwork is repetitive and has a rhythm, like knitting, that is enjoyable in itself. An encyclopedic-scale book showing comparing or explaining all the subtleties and variations was needed urgently and would provide an opportunity for a competent artist/author to document all these techniques and gather their histories.

This book was in the pipeline for a long time, but having heard Valerie Hector speak at bead conferences in USA over several years, and knowing how thoroughly she carries out her research, we expected it to be accurate and informative down to the last detail, and it is. (The fact that Thames and Hudson brought out a large book about "Beadwork around the World" during that time, which was rather disappointing, only made the
wait more frustrating.)

Valerie painstakingly gathered a fantastic collection of photographs to illustrate her book with images of outstanding museum examples in many cases, for example the many nearly complete items from Tutankhamun's tomb of small regular Faience beads housed in the Egyptian Museum, Cairo, such as a sandal and a round "hassock", (p. 76) and a superb mummy shroud (p.12).

"The Art Of Beadwork" aims not only to show excellent historic examples of different beadwork skill traditions but relate them somewhat to further creative possibilities by working with prominent contemporary beadwork artists. To connect with current work and show the techniques in step-by-step diagram form allows a reader to understand a technique better, or a serious beadworking enthusiast may follow the instructions for projects as they are or even adapt to new designs.

In her introduction, after describing her own initiation into beadworking at the age of 11 or 12, when she was interested both in practicing the craft and collecting examples, Valerie discusses the books that influenced her. There are elements of inspiration and original design that some artists find by doing beadwork, or they use beadwork to challenge the usual separation between art and decoration.

Valerie introduces the subject of beadwork in general with a historical view of its simultaneous flourishing on different continents even when the beads available have been of natural organic or mineral materials, and then its transformation as soon as glassworkers perfected techniques of producing small relatively consistent sizes of drawn glass beads in quantity, in many colours and reasonably priced, which wereexported from Italy and Europe, or South and East Asia to all corners of the known trading world.

She discusses the most essential tools and materials that she prefers to use in her work according to what is available in USA, demonstrates general starting and finishing, and shows the 4 basic knots that she finds most practical for various beadwork applications.

The overall scope shown within this book includes much more than individual items of personal adornment, even though all the projects are for wearable jewelry. We are shown fabulous historical examples from top museums and collections such as entire garments, ritual objects, vessels, toys and furnishings, bead-embellished headgear, and a number of inspirational projects using 3-dimensional construction techniques well beyond what a hobbyist would attempt to complete on a wet afternoon. (In fact there already exist plenty of how-to beadwork books with patterns and projects for the less experienced or the impatient, even though they may lack the correct historical information about the background of the techniques).

Valerie has chosen 19 outstanding beadwork artists for the projects plus working on 5 projects herself, and finding ways for all the instructions to be consistent with her high standards.

What I've found really impressive in "The Art of Beadwork" is the clarity of the drawn diagrams. Whether flat worked "Peyote stitch" for example on page 73 or in the round on p. 78, shown diagrammatically with beads that allow the thread direction to be visible, colour diagrams of a brooch in brick stitch on pages 43-45, or quite complicated built-up forms shown with each opaque bead in a 3-dimensional shaded effect such as the earrings on pages 102-5, it would be hard to misread these instructions.

The book is in large paperback format, and very attractively designed without the pages being overcrowded. Many diagrams are at least actual size, but the illustrations of old pieces are smaller than lifesize, and there are only a couple of full-page photos throughout the book, so the eye repeatedly has to adapt its sense of scale as the pages are turned.

Perhaps my only big criticism is that it is not a complete encyclopedia, some traditions such as beadwork in Morocco and North Africa are omitted-possibly because of appearing dull next to all the other exotic work, or because its hard to identify with certainty as Morocco absorbed so many influences that passed through during the centuries of trade, and necklaces are made with the same netting stitches that are also used in many other traditions. Likewise though Valerie shows 17th century European beadwork, and a number of American styles, there is no general showing of the "Victorian" styles that we find here in
UK such as collars and muffchains with sentimental rosebud designs, and so on.

I feel it is a successful book in terms of its aims and can be warmly recommended if you have any Christmas book tokens left.

And here is a cue for a sequel
in a few years perhaps?

~ ~ ~

About.com

Reviewed by Paula S. Morgan

A book for both the historical scholar with a love of beadwork and the beader with a love of ancient beadwork. This book has something for each of these readers - in-depth research into the history of a variety of beading techniques plus interpretations of these techniques in projects for beaders today.

Scholarly Research, Beautiful Beadwork

A perfect combination - historical research, gorgeous photographs of beadwork old and new, plus projects by and profiles of many of the top beadwork artists today.

Each chapter covers a geographic location and includes a carefully researched, well-written history of the indigenous beadwork technique and how it is used today. The local customs and traditions surrounding the beading and beadwork are also covered, giving us a glimpse into the lives and cultures of beaders the world over, now and in ancient times.

The chapters are lavishly illustrated with photographs of both the ancient beadwork and various modern interpretations of the technique and style. There is then a project based on the beadwork style for that region. The projects use the traditional technique and design motifs as a starting point for a bead pattern using modern materials.

The projects are beautifully photographed and the tutorials and instructions are very well written. Examples of finished beadwork using the historical beadwork as inspiration abound, giving the reader not only a project to work, but vast inspiration for further beadwork using these ancient
and regional muses.